A seriously old-school eatery with beautiful double-layer tables from the 50s and waiters who look just as antiquated. The ceiling pipes are open to view with an occasional cat acrobatically balanced on them making its way through the large eating hall. Stay late enough after dinner and you may see characters of suspicious background suffering badly from fashion victimhood make their appearance.

The food is not the most refined but it has a rustic solidity to it that nonetheless makes you feel that this is how life should be – simple, without pretensions. The eight treasure duck is an atavistic treasure hunt as one plunges a spoon into it to scoop out tender morsels of duck flesh and the secrets of its stuffing. This particular pleasure needs to be ordered in advance. Lin Heung does dimsum for lunch too – noisy as it should be with dimsum done with the same basic vigour as they do their dinner dishes. This is also one of the remaining places in Hong Kong where yumcha/dimsum is conducted in the same way as in the 60s.