Kin’s Kitchen
9 Tsing Fung Street
Tin Hau
(852) 2571 0913
Dinner $150-250 per head

I’m so glad that local art critic turned food critic, Lau Kin Wai, has opened this Cantonese restaurant for now I have a place to bring fastidious guests keen to try Cantonese cuisine but leery of the roughness of a "chachanteng" or gruffness of Lin Heung or at the other end of the scale, the frigidity of an upscale restaurant in a hotel. This is classic Cantonese homecooking but nicely balanced between heartiness and refinement.

The house speciality of smoked chicken is good as is the steamed pork mince patty. The menu also contains the really ol’ skool dish of braised pomelo skins (a pomelo is a bit like a giant grapefruit but green on the outside and with a less acidic fruit). This is a bit of an acquired taste perhaps but the sponginess of the pomelo skin is perfect for absorbing gravy and flavour. If you’re feeling adventurous, give this dish a try. And of course, no Cantonese eatery can be without its daily soup. There are usually two to choose from: the basic is hearty chachanteng fare; the more refined choice is usually a delicate clear broth that tastes clean and revitalising. Both are good. Usually taken at the start of the meal, Kin’s Kitchen soups are a sign of the satisfying goodness still to come.